Sleeves

Hereby, I will be drafting a sloper of a sleeve for a person bearing size 8.

Measurements required –

Measure the front and back bodice armholes by placing the measuring tape in verticle direction on to those previously derived slopers.

  • i.e. my front armhole measures –     8.1”
    • back armhole measures –              8.5”
    • Their total:                                      16.6”
  • The total length of the sleeve would be 24”.

Points to keep in mind,

  • Make use of L scale for making perpendiculars.
  • Use the same measuring tape throughout (from the time of noting down the measuring till the end of drafting).
  • Treat the first inch as the beginning point of the measuring tape.

Start drafting your sleeves.

  • A line longer than the chosen length has to be made on the paper which should be placed at the center.
  • Mark the actual length on the line made and name them as point 1 and 2 respectively.
  • Mark the point 3, 6” down from the point 1.
  • Now, we need to measure from the point 2 to 3 (here, 18 is my measurement); divide it by half and add 1” to it.
  • Since 10” is what I have derived; we’ll have to go up from the point 2 by that measurement for marking the point 4.
  • Draw perpendiculars from all the points derived up till now.
  • To determine the length of the bicep line; follow the following steps –
    • Divide the total armhole measurement by 2 and add 1/4th to it.
    • (Hereby, my measurement comes to be 8.4)

      pic-1
      present status
  • Place the measuring tape on point 1, move it in a diagonal direction in such a manner that the derived measurement should fall over the line 3.
  • Repeat it for the other half too. This would demarcate the points 5 and 6 respectively. The line over which the point 5 and 6 lies denotes the bicep line.

    pic-2
    the correct measurement
  • The wrist measurement is determined of being
    2” less than the bicep measurement. For which, measure from point 5 to 3 (mine is 6.1). Subtract the derived measurement from 1”. Place the measuring tape onto the point 2 and mark the new points 7 and 8 on either side by the measurement got after subtraction. From 7 to 8 are the points where the wrist would lie.
  • Join the point 8 to 6 and point 5 to 7 and extend them upwards. It will derive new points 9 and 10 on the line having point 4; 11 and 12 which will line on the line having point 1.
  • Find the midpoint of 5 to 3; 3 to 6; 7 to 2; 2 to 8, and mark points 13, 14, 15, 16. Respectively. i.e. 3 to 13 = 3 to 14 is ½ of points 3 to 5 and ½ of points 3 to 6 respectively.
  • Join the point 15 to 13 and point 16 to 14 and extend them upwards. It will derive new points 17 and 18 adjacent to 9 and 10 respectively as well as points 19 and 20 which will lie next to points 11 and 12 respectively.

    pic-3
    layout up till this stage
  • Now, find the centers of 19 to 1 and 1 to 20 and name those points as 21 and 22.
  • Measure 1/3rd of 5 to 13 and name it 23. And measure ½ of 6 to 14 and name the point 24.
  • To mark the point 25, measure from 1 to 3 divide it by 2 and add ½ to it. And then make a perpendicular from the point 25.
  • Make the curve using French curve leaving ½ of flat lines from 5, 6 and both sides of 1.

    pic-4
    the use of french curve
  • Complete the sloper by making grain line, writing down appropriate instructions and making notches.
  • Back sleeve notch always has two notches 1/2″ apart. Front sleeve cap always has one notch.  Back sleeve cap is 1.1″ below the point 25 (left side of the center line) whereas the front sleeve cap has 1″ down (right side of the center line).

    8
    mark notches

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